Friction can be particularly harmful to Afro-textured hair due to its unique structure. Afro hair tends to have less protective cuticle layers when compared to Caucasian and Asian hair types. In addition to this, the coiled nature of the hair fibre make it particularly prone to dryness and brittleness. This is due to the difficulty in sebum travelling down from the scalp through the lengths of the hair to coat, lubricate and make protect it. This makes Afro hair much more susceptible to premature breakage. Here are the key reasons why friction can be bad for Afro hair:
1. Cuticle Damage: The coiled nature of Afro hair means the cuticle layers tend to be slightly raised as opposed to lying completely flat as you might see in straighter hair types. When friction occurs, these raised cuticles can become even more lifted or damaged, leading to frizz, split ends, and breakage.
2. Moisture Loss: Friction can strip Afro hair of its natural oils, which are essential for maintaining moisture. This is particularly problematic because Afro hair is naturally drier due to the difficulty of sebum (natural oil) traveling down the hair shaft's tight curls. Loss of moisture will eventually lead to brittleness and breakage.
3. Increased Tangles and Knots: Afro hair is prone to tangling due to its coiled structure and naturally raised cuticles. Friction, especially from rough fabrics like cotton or wool, can exacerbate tangling and cause knots, making the hair more difficult to detangle and increasing the risk of breakage during combing or brushing.
4. Breakage: Repeated friction, especially from actions like sleeping on rough pillowcases, wearing tight or rough hats, or harsh and excessive combing, can weaken the hair strands, causing them to snap easily. This breakage can lead to loss of volume in the hair and difficulty in retaining length.
5. Frizz and Lack of Definition: Friction disrupts the hair's natural curl pattern, leading to frizz and increasing the risk of tangles. This can make it harder to style and maintain the desired look.
To minimise friction and protect Afro hair, it's recommended to use satin pillowcases and satin/satin-lined hair accessories, avoid rough handling, finger detangle where possible and regularly lubricate the hair with oil based hair creams to reduce cuticle friction.
